Care Guide for Panther Chameleons

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Panther chameleons (Furcifer pardalis) are absolutely captivating reptiles native to the tropical forests of Madagascar. With incredible color changing abilities and striking patterns, they have become highly desirable exotic pets. However, their specialized care requirements also make them quite challenging to keep healthy and happy in captivity. This care guide covers everything needed to successfully raise panther chameleons.

Housing Your Panther Chameleon

In nature, panther chameleons live high up in the canopies of tall rainforest trees. Creating an arboreal, vertically oriented habitat is absolutely vital. For an adult panther chameleon, the absolute bare minimum enclosure size is 24x24x48 tall, but bigger is always better.

Excellent ventilation is crucial, so opt for a screened reptile cage rather than glass aquariums or terrariums, which can quickly become too humid. The enclosure sides and front should ideally be entirely screen mesh. The substrate along the bottom can be reptile carpet or absorbent paper towels which can be changed out easily to keep the habitat clean. Avoid loose particulate substrates like sand, moss or bark that could cause impactions if accidentally ingested when catching prey.

Provide ample climbing branches, vines and live plants to create vertical height. Place branches and foliage strategically to create basking spots up high and also pockets of shelter and privacy across different habitat levels. The enclosure should simulate the complexity of their rainforest home. Be sure any live plants are reptile safe and nontoxic species. Check my safe plant list here.

Getting the temperature and humidity ranges right in the habitat is absolutely vital for panther chameleons. Ambient temperatures should remain around 70-75°F across the cooler end of the enclosure. The basking area should reach 95-100°F when heated by overhead bulbs. Use thermometers on both the cool and warm sides to monitor the gradient.

Read More: The 3 Best Chameleon Cages To Consider

Panther Chameleon Diet

In the wild, panther chameleons feed on insects, arachnids, small vertebrates and occasionally vegetation. Replicating variety in their diet is important to prevent nutritional deficiencies. Live prey should make up the vast majority of food.

A staple diet of crickets, roaches, silkworms and other appropriate feeders should be offered twice daily for juveniles and every other day for adults. Only provide insects sized no larger than the space between your chameleon’s eyes to prevent choking hazards. Place prey items directly into the enclosure or into a dish for your panther chameleon to hunt. Uneaten live insects should be removed within 24 hours.

Gut load feeder insects with nutritious produce like collard greens and carrots for at least 24 hours before feeding them to your chameleon. This enables the nutrition to still remain in the insect’s gut to be passed on to your pet.

Lightly dust prey items with calcium powder containing no D3 immediately before feeding. Calcium without D3 should be offered twice a month, as should a multivitamin. This supplementation is essential to provide the nutrition that may be missed in gut loading and goes a long way to preventing serious illness.

While some panther chameleons may accept bits of vegetation, this should never be relied on as a significant food source. Chopped greens, edible flowers, melons and berries can be offered fresh daily in a shallow dish, but insect prey should comprise most of the diet. Remove any uneaten plant matter after 24 hours to prevent spoilage. A varied diet will help your panther chameleon thrive.

Further Reading: What Do Chameleons Eat? Diet & Nutrition Guide

Further Reading: The 3 Supplements A Pet Chameleon Needs

Water and Humidity Needs

In the humid rainforests of Madagascar, panther chameleons naturally lick water droplets and moisture from the abundant vegetation surrounding them. Mimicking this in captivity is essential.

Panther chameleons do not recognize standing water in a bowl as drinkable. Instead, you must recreate the experience of licking dew and rainwater from leaves for your pet. Misting the enclosure heavily 2–3 times a day provides water droplets on foliage that your chameleon can consume, in addition to keeping humidity stable. You can do this by either using a hand mister, or you can make life a lot easier for yourself and use an automatic mister. Check out my recommendations for them here.

Another excellent option is using a drip irrigation system inside the habitat which slowly releases water to drip down onto well-positioned leaves, vines and branches. Locate the water drip directly over spots your panther chameleon frequents. This creates a reliable, easily accessed hydration source.

Signs that your panther chameleon is well hydrated include firm, bulging eyeballs, smooth skin with no wrinkling or tenting, and normal bright activity levels. Symptoms of dangerous dehydration include lethargy, sunken eyes, excess skin around the neck and head, dried nostrils and yellowish urates. Dehydration requires an exotics vet’s attention immediately before it becomes fatal. Providing ample hydration takes dedication and vigilance with this species.

As for humidity, Panther chameleons require levels of 50%-60% during the day and between 80%-100% at night. This is easy to maintain through misting during the day, but at nighttime you will need to run a fogger on low setting to keep levels that high.

Further Reading: How Much Humidity Do Chameleons Need?

Further Reading: The Correct Way To Give Chameleons Water

Lighting and Heating

Specialized lighting and controlled heating are other critical components of keeping panther chameleons healthy in captivity. Full spectrum UVB lighting must be provided for 10–12 hours daily to allow for proper vitamin D3 synthesis and bone development. Linear tube bulbs work best to cover more enclosure area. Allowing some direct natural sunlight also provides beneficial rays.

In addition to UVB, establish a proper heat gradient using basking bulbs above branches in the habitat. This creates a localized warm zone of around 95-100°F for your panther chameleon, while allowing the rest of the enclosure to remain cooler at 70-75°F ambient temperature. Place a branch between 6 and 12 inches under the basking lamp to allow your chameleon to still get warm enough without injuring themselves.

Monitor temperatures carefully with reliable thermometers, and adjust heat lamp wattage (start with 100W) and height of branch accordingly. All artificial lighting and heating should be turned off at night, allowing the ambient temps to drop to 65-70°F.

Further Reading: Best Chameleon Lights

Handling Your Panther Chameleon

Panther chameleons, like most chameleons, do not tolerate regular handling well. Handling causes them stress, and too much stress leads to illness. For these reasons, panther chameleons are better appreciated as display animals.

If handling is necessary, always move slowly and gently. Never grab or restrain them forcefully. Keep handling sessions infrequent, brief, and low stress. Grip loosely to allow them to walk from hand to hand rather than restraining. Properly support the body and tail to prevent falls and injuries. Signs of an unhappy panther chameleon include hissing, gaping, breathing heavily, and darkening pigments. Return stressed chameleons to their enclosure immediately.

Since they are solitary by nature, housing panther chameleons together, regardless of gender, is ill-advised and unnecessary. The only time this may work is for breeding purposes. This should only be attempted by more experienced keepers.

Common Health Issues

Unfortunately, panther chameleons are prone to illness in captivity. Stress and poor husbandry are the major contributors to disease. The following are some main health concerns to watch for:

  • Metabolic Bone Disease – Caused by improper calcium, phosphorus and/or vitamin D3 intake leading to weak, deformed bones. Ensure proper supplementation and UVB lighting.
  • Nutritional Deficiencies – Can result from gut loading feeders improperly and not supplementing. Varied, well-supplemented diet prevents this.
  • Parasites – Common parasites like coccidia, pinworms, roundworms, and others. Have fecals tested regularly.
  • Respiratory Infections – Poor humidity and hygiene practices can lead to respiratory infections.
  • Dehydration – Very common and quickly fatal. Follow hydration, humidity, and misting guidelines closely.

Establish a good relationship with a herpatological vet and take your chameleon for check up every 6-12 months to keep an eye on your chameleon’s health.

Further Reading: 14 Ways Chameleons Get Sick

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